WHAT IS AN "ONHWP" PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION (PDI)?
The PDI represents one of your first opportunities to view your new home in its completed state. Your builder's representative will guide you or your designate
(a qualified home inspector) through a comprehensive inspection and show you how to operate the systems in your home, such as ventilation, plumbing and heating.
During the PDI, you or your designate should identify any damaged, incomplete or missing items as well as anything which is not operating properly. You should ensure that your builder's representative records these conditions on the PDI Form to verify that they existed prior to occupancy. If you or your designate cannot assess something because it has not yet been installed or completed, have this noted this on the PDI Form as well.
At the PDI you or your designate will be asked to sign the PDI Form, a Certificate of Completion and Possession (CCP), as well as Confirmation of Receipt of the Homeowner Information Package form (if you have not already signed this form). The CCP also marks the official date of possession, which establishes when your warranty coverage begins.
If you intend to have a designate accompany you at the PDI, let the builder know beforehand. A builder cannot prevent you from having a designate accompany you at the PDI which is legislated in the ONHWP Act.
WHAT SHOULD YOUR "ONHWP" PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION (PDI) CHECKLIST INCLUDE?
INSPECTING THE SYSTEMS
Learning how the systems in your home operate is one of the key benefits of the Pre-Delivery Inspection. The systems in your home include heating, ventilation, electrical and plumbing. The information that follows will assist you in learning more about these systems.
Heating
Check the furnace and hot water heater for general damage, capacity, shut-off mechanisms and the type of filtering systems installed. Review the operation of your heating system. Locate the furnace filters and ask about their care and maintenance. Heat registers should not be located below a thermostat. Check the location and number of cold air returns to make sure they are unobstructed. Learn the location of any fuel (gas, propane or oil) lines and understand how to operate any shut-off devices on these lines.
Mechanical ventilation
Locate the switches for ventilation and circulation fans (normally placed near the thermostat). Locate supplemental fans and switches in each bathroom or in the kitchen and ensure they are operating. Make sure you understand how to achieve proper ventilation in order to avoid condensation problems which may not be covered under the warranty. Refer to the Homeowner Information Package for more information on controlling moisture in your home.
Electrical system
Locate the main electrical panel for your home and review the function of each circuit breaker and each fuse. Your new home has been equipped with ground fault and arc fault circuit interrupters (GFCI and AFCI). GFCI?s protect bathroom and exterior receptacle circuits while AFCI?s protect bedroom receptacle circuits. Ask your builder how to test these devices.
Plumbing system
Locate the shut-off valves for the main water supply and the location of other shut-off valves throughout your home. It is your responsibility to shut off the water supply to all exterior hose bibs to protect them from freezing in winter weather.
Septic system (if applicable)
If your home has a septic system, ask your builder to provide you with information on its use and maintenance. Once ONHWP receives the CCP from your builder, the booklet, A New Homeowner's Guide to Septic Systems, will be sent to you.
INSPECTING THE INTERIOR
Plumbing fixtures
Check for chips in bathtubs, toilets and sinks. Faucets should work properly. Cabinets should be securely fixed to the wall. Caulking around tub and shower enclosures and at countertop backsplashes should be in place.
Basement
Check for signs of water penetration in the basement walls. Near the floor drain the basement floor should slope toward the drain. Floor joists should be made from sound lumber. Joists spanning more than 2.1 metres should have bridging and/or strapping installed unless an engineered flooring system has been used. Check for insulation and vapor barrier in the joist spaces.
Doors
Doors should be well-fitted and operate as intended. Locks should be well installed and should not rattle when the door is closed. Check that weatherstripping seals exterior doors.
Kitchen
Check for damage to countertops, cupboard doors, sinks and appliances. Cabinet doors should be properly aligned. Check spaces for standard appliances unless specific measurements were given to your builder. The space allotted for your appliances should be correct. Test the range hood fan and light. Make sure there are electrical outlets above the counter.
Interior finishes
Inspect the wall finishes for uneven paint coverage or shadowing through the wall material. Check handrails to ensure they are securely fastened and smooth to the touch with no rough edges, chips or gouges.
Closets
Doors should be secure and should open and close easily.
Floors
You should hear only a minimum of squeaks and notice a minimum of spring when walking on the floor. Due to the nature of wood, a wood floor system will have a certain amount of unevenness. Floor coverings should have a relatively flat surface. Examine seams in carpets and vinyl sheet goods to ensure they are tight. Inspect ceramic tiles for surface cracks. Joints between ceramic tiles should be well-filled with grout. Inspect flooring for damage. Examine carpeting for stains or shade variations.
Upgrades and options
Make sure that all pre-selected upgrades and options have been installed.
INSPECTING THE EXTERIOR
Grading
Grounds are graded with a gentle slope away from the house to direct rain and melted snow toward the municipal drainage system. The grading is approved by the municipality and can not be altered by the homeowner after approval.
Swale
Some lots require shallow run off trenches (swales) to help collect and drain water. Swales should be even and of a uniform slope.
Sod
It is possible that sod may not be laid at the time you take occupancy of your new home. Local municipalities may delay this process to ensure certain subdivision requirements have been met. Once installed, you are required to maintain the sod. Ask the builder about proper care and maintenance. Refer to your Homeowner Information Package for the maximum time the builder can take to complete the sodding.
Caulking
All windows and doors should be caulked around their frames?specifically, where the frame meets the wall of the house.
Exterior trim
Wood trim should be securely attached.
Brickwork
Vertical and horizontal mortar joints, between the bricks, should be completely filled. Weep holes at the bottom of the brick and above windows and doors should be free and unobstructed. Weep holes are designed to allow moisture to escape from the brick wall.
Windows
Operate windows to ensure they open and close properly. Make sure there are no cracked panes and that all appropriate screens are in place and free from damage.
Roof ventilation
Air vents should be situated as close as possible to the ridge of the roof.
Shingles
Shingles should lie flat with no corners lifting. They should extend over the roof edge not less than 12 mm so that water is directed to the eavestroughs (if installed).
Gas-proofing garage
The walls and ceiling of an attached garage, that are common with the interior of the home, must be sealed to prevent the passage of gas fumes from the garage to the interior. Although there are different ways to accomplish this, builders will typically cover any common walls and ceilings with gypsum board and seal the joints.
Driveways
If your driveway is to be paved, the builder may wait to do it until the entire subdivision has been completed. Refer to your Homeowner Information Package for the maximum time the builder can take to complete the driveway.
RESALE PURCHASER PRE-INSPECTION CHECKLIST
Although architectural details, wall and floor coverings, modern conveniences, and many other factors are important in the buying decision, the focus of this inspection is on the structural/mechanical/electrical condition of the property.
The inspection is designed to give the real estate agent or prospective purchaser a system to detect some of the readily accessible major flaws or deficiencies in the significant components and systems of a home. It is not designed to, nor does it profess to facilitate detection of all flaws, problems or occurances that might exist in any given home.
To maximize time efficiency and to ensure all of the major sections of the home are taken into consideration, we have developed a systemized approach to the inspection. This is a simplified overview of the same system the professional home inspectors at Frontline Home Inspectors use when they are inspecting a home.
To assist you in following the system, we have provided a checklist that will guide you through your own inspection.
THE BIG PICTURE:
The first step in inspecting a home is to examine the big picture for the home. Notice the area the home is located in. Are there other homes of similar age and construction details relative to the home you are inspecting? A comparison will give you a general idea of the upkeep of the home. Have there been significant modifications to the exterior of the building and if so, how is the workmanship?
EXTERIOR:
Start at the exterior front of the house and work your way around the house (clockwise or counter-clockwise) at a distance which allows you to view a complete face comfortably. On each face (front, sides, rear) start your visual inspection at the top of the structure and work your way down to the ground and lot area. As an example, you would start at the front and note the roof and chimneys, the gutters, fascia and soffits. Then, moving down the exterior wall coverings (brick, wood, aluminum), noting windows, doors, etc. Examine any porches or decks down to the foundation, then the grade or slope of the lot area, followed by any coverings, such as flower beds, walkways, interlocking brick, driveways, etc. Move closer to the house, to examine more closely any details which may have attracted your attention, without skipping any items. Having completed the front, move to the side of the house and start the same procedure (roof to ground).
INTERIOR:
On the interior, begin your inspection in the basement and then follow the system throughout each floor in the house. The system for inspecting the interior is to begin with the floor, go to the walls and then the ceiling, and then consider any appliances or other items in the room. Move from room to room, always in the same direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise) so as to not miss any areas. If you see a door, open it!
In the utility room in the basement, first notice the floor, the walls (possibly the foundation walls are visible here), then the ceiling (floor joists may be visible), then go to the furnace, hot water heater, electrical panel, plumbing system, etc. When inspecting the floors, walls and ceilings, scan the entire area that is visible, not just one section.
In a finished room you would notice the floors, walls (including windows) and ceiling. Next look for the heat sources, electrical outlets and switches, fireplaces, closets etc. In bathroom or kitchen, notice the floor, walls and ceiling, then the plumbing fixtures.
CONDITION:
While performing the inspection, whether at the exterior, the interior, or one of the mechanical systems, note the system first, then it's relative condition. For example, if you were inspecting a wall on the interior of the home you would first note that the wall is plaster, and then examine the wall for cracks and irregularities.
PROBLEMS:
The following are some typical problems or occurances to look for in the major components and systems of the home.
ROOF:
Is the ridge (peak) showing a sag, or is it straight and level?
Is the roof sagging between the rafters or trusses?
Are there any signs of deterioration of asphalt shingles, such as curling, wasping, broken edges, rounded corners or key holes (slits) becoming wider that normal?
Any loose flashings, at the chimney, roof-to-wall connection or elsewhere?
Does the wooden roof deck appear rotted or delaminated under the last row of shingles?
Are there any roof vents visible?
CHIMNEYS:
Is the masonry cap cracked or broken?
Are any bricks flaking or missing? Mortar missing?
Is the chimney leaning?
SOFFITS AND FASCIA:
Note whether the soffits and fascia are wood, aluminum or plastic.
Any loose or missing sections?
If wood, are there any paint problems? Any visible rot?
GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS:
Ensure gutters slope down toward downspouts.
Any rust or peeling paint?
Apparent leaks or loose/sagging sections?
Are the downspouts extended away from the foundations?
WALL COVERINGS:
Look for missing mortar.
Are the bricks flaking or cracking?
Look for loose, missing or rotted siding, deteriorated paint.
Does the siding appear new? Does it hide the foundation wall?
Exterior walls bowed, bulged or leaning?
WINDOWS AND DOORS:
Look for problems with paint or caulking, and rotted wood components.
Are the windows new or older? Are they the original windows? How old are they?
PORCHES AND DECKS:
Cracking or flaking masonry?
Check for paint problems, rotted wood, and wood-earth contact.
Note any settlement or separation from the house.
Inspect the underside, if accessible.
FOUNDATIONS:
Check for cracks, flaking or damaged masonry.
Note any water markings and effluorescence (whitish, chalky substance)
Any bowing, bulging or other irregularities?
Soft mortar?
LOT AREA:
Does the grade slope away from the house?
Any settled/low areas next to the foundation, or cracked walks/driveway?
Is the property lower than the street or neighbouring properties?
BASEMENT:
Note any evidence of water penetration (stains, mildew/odors, effluorescence, loose tiles etc.)
FLOORS:
Check for deteriorated coverings or cracked ceramics.
Any water staining or other damage?
Sloping or sagging?
WALLS:
Randomly sample to check that the windows and doors work.
Are the walls straight vertically and horizontally?
Look for cracked or loose plaster.
Look for stains, physical damage or previous repair evidence.
Any drywall seams or nails showing?
CEILINGS:
Check for cracks in the plaster or loose, sagging plaster.
Look for stains, mechanical damage or evidence of previous repair.
Seams or nails showing?
BATHROOMS AND KITCHENS:
Check that all fixtures are secure.
Are there any cracks in the fixtures?
Note the condition of the tiles and caulking in the tub/shower area.
Are the faucets working? Do they leak? Sufficient water pressure?
Look for staining and rot under the countertops.
Randomly sample the operation of the cabinet doors and drawers.
ELECTRO-MECHANICAL CONSIDERATIONS:
Type, style and age of heating & cooling systems. When were they last inspected or serviced?
Type of water supply piping and drains - any visible rust and corrosion?
Size and age of electical service - are the outlets grounded? Visible wiring in good condition?
Have there been any upgrades?
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